《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇⑤
佛山侨联 2023-12-13 17:42

顺德

美食竹枝词

顺德饮食文化研究专家廖锡祥笔耕不辍，多年来经常创作竹枝词，以通俗易懂的语言，生动描述佛山顺德本土美食，形成富有粤语特色的粤菜文化诗歌。今在各方支持下，结集成书，名为《顺德美食竹枝词》。

本书共收录顺德美食竹枝词200首，分为名菜篇、小吃篇、宴席篇、食材篇、食俗篇、食府篇和食典篇七个部分，全面、立体地展现了顺德美食文化的内涵和魅力。

一顿让人心满意足的饭菜

当然不能只有肉食

清爽解腻的素菜也不可少

荤素搭配才更合理

而顺德人对素菜的做法也很有讲究

本期，为大家介绍

《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇⑤

一起瞧瞧

那些以素菜为主角的顺德名菜

顺德小炒皇

Shunde Wok-fried Delicacies

时蔬嫩肉配奇方，

猛火鲜烹镬气香。

信手拈来成妙谛，

无须加冕亦称皇。

（图片由奄尖大少私房菜提供）

凤城小炒是凤城厨师的绝活之一，素有“小炒皇”的美誉。其卖点之一是镬气足。顺德餐馆几乎必有一道拿手小炒菜式，既未经评判封赠称号，也无固定配方，全凭厨师心经，根据时令和手头食材选定。原则是素荤结合，鲜活是首要条件，猛火急攻，火候恰到好处。此菜表现出顺德人适应环境、随手拈来的生活智慧。

Acclaimed as the king of “xiao chao”(or small stir-fry), this delicacy is a signature dish of Shundenese chefs. Almost every restaurant in Shunde has its own wok-fried dish. There is no rigid set of recipe or ingredient. Chefs use whatever seasonal foodstuff they have and cook according to their experience. The main principle is the dish has both meat and vegetables. The key is to use fresh ingredients, stir fry on high heat and balance timing and heat well. It’s all about the art of adapting and improvising.

雕刻冬瓜盅

Soup in Carved Winter Melon

炖得琼盅透壁香，

羹涵八宝润衷肠。

青皮绽处熊猫现，

鬼斧神工韵味长。

（图片由林壤明师傅提供）

顺德籍“广东十大名厨”之一的林壤明，创造性地在冬瓜盅上雕刻出一对憨态可掬的大熊猫，他把此菜献给西哈努克亲王，并以此菜在世界烹饪大赛上获金奖，使雕刻冬瓜盅成了粤菜中的经典菜肴。

●琼盅：1988年，广州北园酒家厨师陈志强（顺德籍）把他参加第二届全国烹饪大赛的金牌冬瓜盅命名为“玉液琼盅”。

Lin Rangming, a well-known Shundenese chef and a Top 10 Chef of Guangdong, refined the original recipe creatively and carved a pair of pandas vividly on a winter melon. The dish was presented to Norodom Sihanouk when he visited Guangzhou. It has won a gold medal at a Culinary World Cup, making it a legendary classic of Cantonese cuisine.

芋蓉水瓜脯

Pan-fried Wax Gourd Stuffed

with Taro Paste

金棋碧玉出瓜田，

岂惧浇油釜上煎。

内着戎装腰自直，

热凉肥瘦不由天。

（图片由大良皇帝酒店提供）

此菜又名香煎水瓜脯，是顺德的一道田园风味菜。水瓜质软易焾，制作时容易过火而瘫软成团。将去皮水瓜切成棋子形状，挖出瓤，填入芋蓉、腊肉粒等熟料，煎至呈金黄色便成。此菜瘦中有肥，软中有硬，凉中带热，翠绿中有金黄，全凭制作者的匠心。

It’s a pastoral dish in Shunde. Wax gourd is soft and juicy, so it must be cooked with a good control of timing and heat; if overcooked, it loses its soft and crunchy texture. Peel and cut wax gourds into chunks. Scoop out the pulp and seeds, then stuff each segment with cooked ingredients, such as taro paste and Cantonese cured ham dices. Then pan fry till they turn golden. The dish is both soft and crunchy and has both warming and cooling functions. It has a great balance of colors, textures, and flavors.

咸蛋黄炒凉瓜衣

Stir-fried Bitter Melon Peels

with Salted Yolk

胚珠炸罢脱瓜瓤，

两拨三兜镬气香。

且向银盘细探看，

金沙点缀绿衣裳。

（图片由大良千家客饭店提供）

美食散文家石璞先生称顺德菜是“最精细的家常菜”。咸蛋黄炒凉瓜衣先把苦瓜皮切成薄片，用水焯过，沥干。咸蛋黄搅碎，用温油炒过，待油凉后把炒好的蛋黄过细筛成沙状，将炒好的凉瓜衣与蛋黄沙合炒。

●凉瓜衣：苦瓜外层翠绿光亮的青皮。

Essayist Shi Pu considered Shunde cuisine as the finest homemade cuisine and this dish is a classic example. Slice bitter melon peels, poach and drain. Mash and then fry the salted egg yolk over low to medium heat until it bubbles. Press the yolk through a sieve when it cools down. Add the bitter melon peels and sieved yolk to the wok and mix them evenly.

蒜子双蛋苋菜汤

Garlic & Amaranth Soup

with Eggs

嫩苋汆来格调高，

清新淡雅见情操。

单凭玉子双鲜美，

绝胜浓肥荐老饕。

（图片由容桂大快活酒楼提供）

这是顺德的一道新潮靓汤。此菜汤鲜味美，色泽明洁隽雅，口感滑润软糯，造型美观雅致。用咸蛋和皮蛋为苋菜配味衬色，体现出以蔬菜为主角的特点。

●玉子：鸡蛋的异称。

This soup is new and trendy. Vegetables play a starring role, and salted eggs and preserved eggs are added to give savories and beautiful colors to the amaranth. This soup has delicate and bright colors and is creamy and replete with umami.

老少平安

Steamed Tofu & Fish Mix

鱼胶菽乳巧调融，

饭面蒸成撒碎葱。

记住加条油炸鬼，

果然有此不相同。

（图片由顺德美食文化体验中心提供）

这是顺德的一道传统家常菜，也是一道吉祥菜。此菜用无骨、易嚼、易消化、味道温和的豆腐（或鸡蛋浆）与鲮鱼茸和匀同蒸，有时还加入撕成小块的油条，更添鲜香味美。此菜尤宜于老人、幼儿进食，可确保尽吃无虞，故名“老少平安”。

●菽乳：豆腐的别称。

It is a traditional dish and an auspicious delicacy in Shundenese households. Mix the bland tofu or egg wash with minced fish, then steam and serve, sometimes with a scatter of fried dough strips to enrich its flavor. Boneless, easy to chew and digest, this dish is often recommended for the elderly and children, hence also named “lao shao ping an”(or peace and safety to the old and the young).

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