《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇③
佛山侨联 2023-11-21 17:39

顺德饮食文化研究专家廖锡祥笔耕不辍,多年来经常创作竹枝词,以通俗易懂的语言,生动描述佛山顺德本土美食,形成富有粤语特色的粤菜文化诗歌。今在各方支持下,结集成书,名为《顺德美食竹枝词》

本书共收录顺德美食竹枝词200首,分为名菜篇、小吃篇、宴席篇、食材篇、食俗篇、食府篇和食典篇七个部分,全面、立体地展现了顺德美食文化的内涵和魅力。

鸡鸭鹅

作为顺德人餐桌上的主角

在顺德菜谱中有着不可撼动的地位

“出场”频率远居高位

本期,为大家介绍

《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇③

一起在顺德美食竹枝词中

感受顺德名菜的“独特魅力”

香麻手撕鸡

Hand-shredded Chicken

with Sesame Oil

温泉浴罢雪中藏,

嫩滑清鲜泛润光。

更缀油麻如碎玉,

分身小凤压群芳。

(图片由勒流街道办事处经济发展办公室提供)

这是顺德勒流的一道传统名菜,原为手撕盐焗鸡,后经勒流名厨张远改进。将盐焗改为水浸,与盐焗鸡风味各有千秋,而坐收“省时省工”之利。此菜的特点可概括为香滑鲜嫩,味美可口,形态美观,色泽明亮。

It’s a classic dish in Shunde’s Leliu. Zhang Yuan, a famous chef in Leliu, refined an older recipe of hand-shredded chicken. By using a cooking method called “shui jin”(or water steeping), instead of salt-baking, it saves time and efforts to cook but the flavor is comparable. Dressed in aromatic sesame oil and speckled with toasted sesame seeds, the chicken is succulent, silken, savory, and sleek.

桑拿鸡

Sauna Chicken

尝鲜借得北欧名,

釜甑相加古法烹。

几度凤肴新熟后,

一瓯仙液悄然成。

(图片由阿多私房菜提供)

此菜用汽蒸,一鸡两做,上层蒸鸡肉片,下层炖鸡骨汤。

桑拿:取名借用北欧盛行的“桑拿浴”,实为汽蒸。

For this dish, one chicken is cooked in one steaming pot but in two ways. Chicken bones are used to make soup, while tender chicken slices are steamed above the soup.

扽骨大鸭

Stewed Duck

汤清似水广皮香,

大鸭雄豪味最长。

一扽仙肌齐脱骨,

咸宜老少养肝肠。

(图片由北滘四大家鱼饭店提供)

扽骨大鸭是北滘四大家鱼饭店的招牌菜,用老冬瓜、陈皮和大老雄鸭炖制而成。清代医学家王士雄认为,鸭属甘凉,滋五脏之阴,清虚劳之热。有人言:“烂煮老雄鸭,功效比参芪。”清代美食家李渔说:“诸禽尚雌,而鸭独尚雄。诸禽贵幼,而鸭独贵长。”此菜汤清似水,有鸭的鲜味和冬瓜的清香。
扽:粤音“趸”第三声,意为用力抖动。

广皮:指广东新会陈皮。

It is a specialty dish of Sidajiayu Restaurant in Beijiao. After gentle simmering with old male duck, mature winter melon and dried mandarin peels, the soup is clear and nourishing, replete with refreshing aroma. Wang Shixiong, a 19-century Chinese doctor believed that duck could dispel unnecessary heat from organs and nourish “yin” of one’s body. Li Yu, a 17-century gourmet said: “Female fowls are usually the best, but ducks are the opposite; young poultries are usually the most valued, but older ducks are better.”

葵花大鸭

Marinated Duck Slices

百年佳馔几番新,

上席葵花更喜人。

竟是仙凫浓此味,

绵绵沁作九秋珍。

(图片由魏民先生提供)

此菜又称葵花鸭,在成书于清代光绪年间的粤菜菜谱《美味求真》中已有记载。顺德名厨蔡锦槐与十大名厨之一的罗福南分别把它改为鸭肉片“川(汆)”汤和卤水鸭片造型菜,体现了顺德厨师勇于推陈出新的精神。

凫:鸭子。

It is also called “kui hua ya”(or sunflower duck), because of the resemblances. This recipe is recorded in Authentic Delicacies, a Cantonese cookery book finished during the Guangxu Period of the Qing Dynasty. Later, Shundenese chefs transformed the traditional recipe with sheer creativity. A master chef Cai Jinhuai used “chuan”(or blanching), to cook the duck slices with soup while Luo Funan, a Top 10 Chef, made it into a sunflower-shaped dish with marinated duck slices.

顺德梅子鹅

Traditional Plum Goose

甑载笼承大灶烹,

梅糖配味胜和羹。

酸甜引得涎三尺,

土法蒸鹅古制行。

(图片由日盛世濠提供)

此菜又称“酸梅鹅”“梅子甑鹅”。至今,顺德乡间烹制此菜仍沿用古代岭南甑法和古代以梅调酸的方法,置调味料、辅料(爆香的姜米、蒜蓉)于鹅腹内而后蒸焾,以求原汁原味,深入骨髓。相传,明末顺德人黄士俊大魁天下后曾用梅子鹅做菜,所以乡间又称梅子鹅为“状元鹅”。

It’s also known as plum goose in “zengzi”, a wooden rice steamer. It adopts the traditional way of “zeng” steaming and uses plums as a condiment. Season and stuff the frying-fragrant chopped ginger and garlic inside the goose; then steam in “zengzi” to preserve the gentle succulence of meat and the original taste of all the ingredients. It’s said that in the late Ming Dynasty, a Shundenese named Huang Shijun cooked the goose with plum after he got the first place in the final imperial examination. Therefore, people also call the dish “Zhuang yuan e”, or the number one scholar goose.

彭公鹅

Penggong Goose

酱色生光有醋鹅,

盛行姜酌味融和。

敬祈彭祖施恩泽,

百载欢吟贺寿歌。

(图片由大良龙的酒楼提供)

顺德民风淳朴,素有以鹅宴客的风俗。彭公鹅是容桂的一道传统名菜,多出现在婴儿满月筵席和老人寿宴上,以子姜、乌醋(甜中带酸)和彭公之名表达子孙昌盛、健康长寿的美好愿望。大良龙的酒楼的“古法彭公鹅”在第五届中国烹饪世界大赛中夺得热菜金奖。

Goose has been a centerpiece of Shundenese feasts since ancient times. And this is one of Ronggui’s time-honored classics, mostly served in feasts that celebrate the first month of a newborn and birthday of the elderly. The dish is named after Penggong(or Peng Zu), a legendary long-lived saint in Taoism. It uses symbolic ingredients like young ginger and black vinegar, which tastes sour, or “sun” in Cantonese, a homonym of grandchild. People hope for longevity and fertility through this dish. The traditional Penggong  goose of Longde Restaurant won the gold medal for hot dishes at the 5th World Championship of Chinese Cuisine.

RECOMMEND



@海(境)外留学生,您有一张专属邀请函,请查收!

来源 | 顺德区侨联、粤菜图书馆

编辑丨佛山市侨联微信编辑团队