《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇②
佛山侨联 2023-11-16 14:09

—   顺德    —
美食
竹枝词

顺德饮食文化研究专家廖锡祥笔耕不辍,多年来经常创作竹枝词,以通俗易懂的语言,生动描述佛山顺德本土美食,形成富有粤语特色的粤菜文化诗歌。今在各方支持下,结集成书,名为《顺德美食竹枝词》

本书共收录顺德美食竹枝词200首,分为名菜篇、小吃篇、宴席篇、食材篇、食俗篇、食府篇和食典篇七个部分,全面、立体地展现了顺德美食文化的内涵和魅力。

对于爱吃的顺德人民来说

即使一条普通的鱼

也能有千百种做法

煎、焖、焗、蒸、炖、煮……

每一条鱼都会被安排明白!

本期,为大家介绍

《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇②

带你在顺德美食竹枝词中

尝尽一条鱼的千滋百味

Shredded Vegetable & Fish Soup

七 彩 鱼 茸 羹       

  

鳙鱼脱骨自非庸,

七彩缤纷亮秀容。

美味羹汤谁烩出?

凤城巧妇冠其中。

(图片由梁兆荣师傅提供)

这是一道均安名菜,已发布均安名菜联盟制作标准。顺德自古就有“饭稻羹鱼”的饮食方式。这道菜的配料通常有木耳丝、红萝卜丝、丝瓜丝、冬菇丝、陈皮丝、粉丝及柠檬叶丝等,七彩缤纷。七彩鱼茸羹曾被选为2015年全民最爱顺德十大名菜之一。

This celebrated Jun’an dish has been included in the Standards of Jun’an Famous Dishes. Rice and fish soup have been the staple food on Shundenese dinner tables since ancient times. The ingredients of the fish soup include bean vermicelli, dried mandarin peels, and julienne vegetables such as wood ears, carrots, luffa, mushrooms, and lemon leaves. The dish was rated as one of the 2015 Shundenese 10 Most Loved Dishes.

Traditional Pan-fried Perch Slices

古 法 锅 贴 鲈 鱼     

  

顺德烹鱼百样新,

半煎半炸炼厨珍。

只嫌西点无滋味,

更把鲜肥合一身。

(图片由大良街道办事处经济发展办公室提供)

“古法锅贴鲈鱼”是老一辈凤城名厨龙华的拿手好菜,此菜的做法是把鲈鱼块贴在肥猪肉片上半煎炸,曾被改为西点式的贴面包片而半煎炸,在“寻找凤城失传旧味”活动中,古法“复活”,此法可强化甘香之味。

It is a signature dish of master chef Long Hua, who put fish fillet on top of fatty pork slices and shallow fry them together. Though sliced bread was once used instead of pork, the traditional recipe created by Long Hua, was rediscovered in an event called “Searching for Nostalgic Shunde Tastes” .It’s believed that Long Hua’s recipe makes the dish more succulent and fragrant.

Shunde Stuffed Mud Carp

家 乡 酿 鲮 鱼   

  

脱胎换骨见刀工,

煎酿鲮鱼自不同。

老少咸宜堪细品,

千滋百味乐其中。

(图片由聚福山庄提供)

酿鲮鱼是与大良炒牛奶、大良野鸡卷齐名的顺德传统名菜,被视为顺德人食鱼八法中“酿食”的典型菜例。有美食专家认为,“令鲮鱼脱胎换骨、改进滋味的构思堪称一绝”。(见《新概念中华名菜谱·广东名菜》)

It’s one of Shunde’s time-honored classics, alongside Daliang stir-fried milk and Daliang deep-fried pork rolls. This delicacy is a typical example of “niang shi”(or stuffing), one of the eight ways to cook fish among Shundenese. A cookery book Guangdong Celebrated Dishes, New Concept of Chinese Recipes, believes that this is a remarkable and creative way to transform a bony mud carp and refine its flavor.

Jun'an Fish Paste

均 安 鱼 揸 

  

顺拨轻揸搅复揉,

胶凝玉脍渐成球。

阴柔太极擒拿手,

略比霜锋胜一筹。

(图片由张长荣师傅提供)

均安鱼揸是均安镇一种制法奇特、风味独特的半成品鱼胶。不剁鱼茸,而把鱼肉带皮切成薄片,加入配料、味料,顺时针方向搅拌至半片半胶状态,煮熟后爽滑有嚼劲。一个“揸”字,生动表现了搅拌时的手势和动作,即边搅拌边揉捏,指与掌密切配合,用阴柔之力把鱼片搅拌至融为一体而又隐约可见。

It’s a particular premade fish paste dish, whose recipe comes from Jun’an. This dish has a special flavor and texture. Instead of chopping to paste, the fish is sliced, seasoned, mixed with other ingredients and then stirred clockwise by hand until it becomes both springy and sticky. When stirring, people knead at the same time so that the fish slices are mashed and well mixed with the paste. Cooked, it tastes smooth and bouncy.

Steamed Mud Carp Mouths

荷 香 鲮 鱼 鼻    

  

绿荷阴里暗香飘,

唼水银鳍分外娇。

最爱鲮公亲不绝,

深情款款两魂销。

(图片由龙江大富贵农庄提供)

顺德谚曰:“鲮鱼鼻,田鸡髀,扁(鲢)鱼腹,鲩鱼尾。”民间认为鼻(嘴)是鲮鱼最好吃的部位,肥美滋润,骨脆而松。制作此菜时,以透气性好的竹筛为盛器,以荷叶垫底,上铺薄如纸张的陈村粉,排放上一众朝天的鲮鱼鼻,以本土龙山乌酱调味蒸至恰熟。成菜洋溢着浓郁的田园味,堪称顺德水乡风味菜的代表之一。

There is a saying in Shunde that mud carp mouths, frog thighs, silver carp bellies and grass carp tails are the most delicious. The mouth, best part of a mud carp, is juicy, rich, and tender. Take a bamboo sieve as a plate, put some lotus leaves on it, then spread Chencun rice sheets and lay mud carp mouths. Season with Longshan soybean paste and steam till just cooked. It’s a representative dish of Shunde, a city of water.

Crunchy Fish Skin Salad

凉 拌 爽 鱼 皮  

  

冰凉爽脆拌姜丝,

宛似金纱织锦时。

艇上同餐糜更好,

天成绝配两相宜。

(图片由日盛世濠提供)

《食在广州:岭南饮食文化经典》评论,凉拌爽鱼皮是“粗料精做,化腐朽为神奇”的典型菜例,该菜品最早由顺德人创制,故亦称“顺德爽鱼皮”。陈村人陈添制作的“顺德爽鱼皮”颇有名气。

A culinary book, Food in Guangzhou: Lingnan Culinary Culture comments that crunchy fish skin salad is a classic example of turning simple ingredients into magical delicacies. It’s created by Shundenese, hence named “Shunde crunchy fish skin salad”. Chen Tian from 

Chencun was good at making this dish.

RECOMMEND



美国华商总会拜访佛山市侨联

来源 | 顺德区侨联、粤菜图书馆

编辑丨佛山市侨联微信编辑团队