《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇①
佛山侨联 2023-11-08 17:27

顺德

顺德饮食文化研究专家廖锡祥笔耕不辍,多年来经常创作竹枝词,以通俗易懂的语言,生动描述佛山顺德本土美食,形成富有粤语特色的粤菜文化诗歌。今在各方支持下,结集成书,名为《顺德美食竹枝词》

本书共收录顺德美食竹枝词200首,分为名菜篇、小吃篇、宴席篇、食材篇、食俗篇、食府篇和食典篇七个部分,全面、立体地展现了顺德美食文化的内涵和魅力。

本期,为大家介绍

《顺德美食竹枝词》——名菜篇①

一起从词中感受

独属于顺德的人间烟火气

大良炒牛奶

Daliang Stir-fried Milk

巧手烹来箸下香,

鲜甜嫩滑诱人尝。

尤奇玉液凝仙酪,

享誉中华软炒王。

(图片由顺德区文化广电旅游体育局提供)

此菜被奉为中华烹饪软炒法的典型菜例,是最负盛名的顺德名菜。成菜凝而不泻,奶香醇厚,洁白滑嫩。
玉液:这里指牛奶。

软炒:指以蛋液、牛奶等富含蛋白质的液体为主料,配以无骨肉料或细薄脆嫩的原料,炒成柔软嫩滑、凝结至熟的一种烹饪方法。

It is acclaimed as the most famous Shunde dish and a typical example of “ruan chao”(or soft stir-fry).Protein-rich liquid mixture, such as egg wash or milk, is usually the main ingredient in “ruan chao”, together with boneless meat or flaky ingredients.Gently stir fry till it curdles. The dish is silky and creamy.

锅贴牛奶

Pan-fried Milk Curds

金铺玉砌美名扬,

半炸醍醐软且香。

合璧中西肴似点,

新潮奶品赋诗章。

(图片由聚福山庄提供)

此菜亦肴亦点,既有油炸品的酥脆,又能保持牛奶的软滑,玉白与金黄相映衬,少了炸牛奶的油腻,而增添了层次感和质感,口味更丰富。此菜是顺德名厨康海受西点“吐司”(toast)的启迪,于20世纪80年代末创制而成的。

Inspired by the Western toast, Kang Hai, a famous chef in Shunde, created this dish in the late 1980s. It looks like a gold brick with flawless jade-white custard inside. It tastes both crispy and tender. Compared to deep-fried milk curds, it is less greasy and has more layered flavors. It can be served as a main dish or a dim sum dish.

牛奶炖鸡

Stewed Chicken with Milk

滴珠牛奶贵浓鲜,

玉露脂香溢盛筵。
凤过银河疑圣药,
清肴一味出嫣妍。

(图片菜式由罗志坚师傅制作

图片由原《贝太厨房》杂志社郑雪梅提供)

这是一道美味与营养兼备的传统菜。将鲜水牛奶与鸡同炖,鸡味鲜甜,奶味香浓,汤色洁白,有滋补养颜的功效,尤受女士喜爱。

滴珠牛奶:顺德的鲜水牛奶浓稠,含脂量高,把奶滴在玉扣纸上,仿佛珍珠,不泄散,不透纸,故有“滴珠”之谓。

This traditional dish combines delicious flavors and rich nutrients. After gentle simmering with fresh buffalo milk, the chicken soup is creamy and nourishing, especially popular among ladies.

金榜牛奶炒龙虾球

Jinbang Stir-fried Milk 

with Lobster Balls

具体而微屹雪峰,

潜藏闹海嫩花龙。

金牌一簋鲜牛奶,

古意新翻制作工。

(图片由东海海鲜酒家提供)

此菜由原银龙轩海鲜酒楼出品部行政总厨陈德和(后被评为“顺德十大名厨”)创制,在1998年顺德美食大赛上获得“十大金牌名菜”的美誉。此菜以纯正金榜牛奶配以鲜嫩花龙虾球,用传统的顺德软炒法烹炒而成,构思巧妙,制法独特,被公认为新派凤城菜的代表。

It was created by the executive chef of Yinlongxuan Restaurant—Chen Dehe, who was later awarded as one of the Top 10 Chefs of Shunde. The dish was rated as one of the 10 Gold Medal Dishes at the 1998 Shunde Gourmet Competition and is still acclaimed as a representative of New Shunde Cuisine. Adopting the traditional “ruan chao” cooking method, it has creamy authentic Jinbang buffalo milk and crunchy yet tender lobster balls.

菊花鲈鱼羹 

Perch Soup with Chrysanthemums

秋风飒飒菊花黄,

玉脍金齑戏上汤。

若得张公评此味,

莼羹短却齿留香。

(图片由顺德区文化广电旅游体育局提供)

这是一道顺德传统名菜,其起源可能与仰慕屈原、陶潜、张翰等历史名人的高风亮节有关。此羹汤清鲜甜,鱼肉爽滑,色泽清雅。
玉脍金齑:隋炀帝曾把鲈鱼之美味赞为“金齑玉脍,东南佳味”。
张公:张翰,晋代人,在洛阳做官。秋风起,因思念家乡吴地的莼羹鲈脍,他辞官还乡。

短:输、逊、欠。

This historically famous dish in Shunde might be inspired by the integrity of Chinese scholar-gentlemen,including Qu Yuan, Tao Qian and Zhang Han. The fair and delicatecolored soup is replete with the umami sweetness of the silky and smooth perch and fragrance of chrysanthemum petals.

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